Finished projects

A Tencel Sewaholic Granville

Dear Granville,

I have not felt this way about another pattern in what feels like forever. Your very existence makes my heart go pitter-patter. Our first rendezvous made my knees weak with delight. I think about you everyday and I wish for us to make many more of you in the near future. I promise to love you forever and ever until my dying day.

XOXO,

RED

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A little too much? Maybe, but that second to last sentence is 100% truth. Before the Moneta, my normal work “uniform” was button down collared shirts with slacks. I bought most of them from Express and although they were cute, the fit and the fabric just wasn’t ideal. The shoulders and bust would be too tight and I even had an episode with one shirt that left weird glittery pit stains. Turns out it’s a reaction to antipersperant, depending what the shirt is made from. CREEPY.

I thought I would rarely wear button down collared shirts anymore… that is until the Granville appeared! I know it’s been out for a really long time now, but I finally got off my booty and traced, cut, and sewed the pattern.

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I bought the Granville last holiday season during a buy one get one free sale from Sewaholic. Then, in the spring I ordered this beautiful Tencel denim from Threadbare Fabrics along with some Cone Mills denim to make more Ginger Jeans. I knew when I bought the Tencel that it would become a Granville. And let me tell you, it is a match made in heaven.

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The Tencel literally feels like kitten kisses and unicorn fluff when you’re wearing it. Every time it brushes across my fingers, I sigh with delight. (Getting weird again? OK, I’ll stop). But seriously, this stuff is AMAZING.

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Let’s move onto the pattern. I cut a straight size 10 because I didn’t want this to be skin tight like my RTW shirts. If it ended up being too big, then I figured I could layer it over a t-shirt on the weekends and roll up the sleeves to 1/2 or 3/4 length. But thankfully it didn’t end up being too big and although there’s some room to move around in there, it doesn’t look frumpy.

The pattern has a 5/8 inch seam allowance and I decided to only sew the sleeves at 3/8 inch because when I tried it on with the 5/8 inch seam allowance, the sleeves felt too tight when I bent my arms. I blame my buffness on the gym. ๐Ÿ˜‰

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If I had to gripe about the end result, it would be that the sleeves are just a little too long. I’m wondering if Tasia made the sleeves super long purposefully so you can wear them with the cuffs turned up. If you turn them up, then the sleeves are just about the perfect length.

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This was my first time sewing sleeve plackets and for a while, it left me scratching my head. I’m still not sure if I got them facing the correct way, but I really don’t think anyone would notice.

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They kind of bell out here since the sleeves are a little too long. I think the next go-round, I’ll just keep the seam allowance to 5/8 inch and shorten the sleeves. Hopefully that will fix the sloppy looking plackets. But I have to say I’m pretty proud of how they came out considering I had no idea what I was doing!

The only major speed bump I hit while making the Granville was that @^%!# collar.

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Now, this wasn’t my first rodeo with a collar and collar stand (passport shirt, chambray shirt dress, gingham shirt dress) so I knew the basics. The problem I had was the collar and collar stand ended up much longer than the top of the shirt I was supposed to sew it to. I knew darn well I cut those pieces at an exact size 10, so I had no idea where I went wrong. All of the sewing bloggers that have made it already didn’t mention this anomaly, although after the fact I did find one that shared my problem. Unfortunately I can’t remember who shared my struggles, so sorry for no link!

So I had to unpick all of that top stitching on the collar and re-sew it and the collar stand another seam allowance smaller. That seemed to do the trick! I’m hoping I don’t have the same problem with my next Granville.

Now let’s take a peek at the details!

I have absolutely no use for a bust pocket, but I decided to include one just to add interest to the shirt.

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If you look closely, I sewed it on a little crooked, but OH WELL. I’m pretty proud of my top-stitching, though.

I also have to note that the placement of the buttons is spot-on. I thought I would have to make adjustments so there would be no gaping, but lo and behold, I didn’t! Hooray for wonderfully drafted patterns!

OK now time for the guts! I wanted to do flat-felled seams, but ended up just serging everything instead. I didn’t know how the fit was going to be, so it was easier to baste and check the fit before serging rather than making beautiful flat-felled seams only to find out I had to rip them all apart if the fit was off. Now that I know the fit is spot-on, it will be flat-felled seams from here on out now!

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And hey, did you spot one of my new labels there?

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Totes official!

Oh, I forgot to mention that this was my first time sewing a yoke using the “burrito” method. I’ve heard other bloggers wax poetic about it but didn’t understand how it could be so life-changing, but NOW I KNOW. I wasn’t quite sure how it would work, so it took me a while to wrap my head around it before I jumped in and started sewing. But it worked and now I don’t think I’ll ever go back to hand-stitching yokes again.

That’s one of the many things I love about indie patterns – they usually teach me new and faster ways of sewing. Thanks, indie pattern companies! โค

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I can’t wait to get started on more Granvilles but I have a few other projects to make first. Darn priorities. :-\

Have you made the Granville yet? Are you as much in love with it as I am? What’s your favorite TNT pattern? Share in the comments!

‘Til next time!

-RED

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23 thoughts on “A Tencel Sewaholic Granville

  1. That’s beautiful! I’m amazed at your sewing skills and the fact that you figured out the collar…I’m pretty sure that I would have just screamed at my sewing machine and moved on. ๐Ÿ˜‰ And I love your new tags! They look great!

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    1. Thank you! I did spend a lot of time searching Sewaholic to unlock the mystery behind the collar. I’ll also admit there may have been some screaming happening, too. ๐Ÿ˜‰

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    1. Thanks! And that sounds like a great idea! I never used to get people’s gripes about sewing a collar and collar stand because I guess the first patterns I used with those were fine. Now I totally understand the pain! LOL

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  2. I had the exact same issue with the collar on the Granville shirt! I nearly tore my hair out trying to figure out what I had done wrong, and, like you, I couldn’t find anyone else on the internet who talked about this. Anyway, thank you for confirming that I’m not crazy! ๐Ÿ™‚

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  3. Looks great! I feel totally the same way about Granville. Ah, Granville ๐Ÿ™‚ You’re right about the sleeves though – I’m 5’10” and those are the only ones I’ve ever not had to lengthen! I hadn’t considered they could have been designed to be worn turned up. I used a size 10 collar too and it was too big on my muslin, but it turned out I had folded the button band in too far (I still say those markings are confusing). Could you have done the same?

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    1. I think it’s funny how most of the Sewaholic patterns are drafted for people who are 5’4″ but it looks like the sleeves are drafted for 5′ 10″ people, LOL! I think I folded everything correctly… hmmm. I am actually at the collar stage on my second Granville and just by holding it together, I think the collar piece might be OK but the collar stand is still about a whole seam allowance bigger than it should be. I guess I’ll find out for sure once I sew everything together. So far I just have the collar stand sewn on and the collar unattached but top-stitched. Fingers crossed!

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  4. Button downs suit you so well! And tencel is made of fairy dust…I wish I could find it more frequently. It is so nice to sew and even better to wear. Those edges of collars are so stinking hard. I’m all about Steam a Seam to glue things into place, but I hold my breath every single time for those 2 inches.

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    1. Thank you! I’m realizing just how much I missed wearing button downs – all I can think about is making more… hence why I’m working on an Alder for my Day Challenge. ๐Ÿ˜‰

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  5. It’s beautiful!!! Great job. I think you picked a great fabric for the pattern, too–the drape is fab and the color can go with so many things! That is weird about the collar and stand; I don’t own the pattern and haven’t made it, so I have nothing helpful to add there. But good for you for getting through it and making it work! (And OMG YES the burrito method is the best.)

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    1. Thanks so much! I think I might want to get more of this Tencel and make a shirt dress with it. And maybe a cami. And MY WHOLE WARDROBE. I swear I’m wearing it every week and whenever I wear it, I find I’m rubbing my arms to feel the softness of this magic fabric. โค

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  6. I love this pattern too! I’m on the hunt for some tencel in a cobalt-ultramarine shade for my 2nd Granville…my first is in a slubby shirting cotton, but this convinces me that tencel is the right next step. And now that you mentioned it, yeah! The collar is LONG! I didn’t strongly register that because I don’t button my shirts all the way up the neck but it’s true.

    Anyway, the shirt looks awesome and fits you great!!

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  7. Ah, the humble button down. It really is such a staple piece. My fav is B5526. I’ve made it so much that I don’t even need to look up the number anymore. The best way I’ve found to sew a collar and stand is from Sewaholic “how to sew a shirt the tailor’s way”. I always pop it up when I make a shirt. It’s my least fav part.

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      1. LOL I appreciate the compliments, but know that they’re not expected. ๐Ÿ˜‰ I had to use the Sewaholic collar tutorial for this one and for me it seems to be more complicated than, say, that McCall’s 6996 (or 6696?) shirt dress I’ve made. Hmmmm.

        Is B5526 the one that Lladybird Lauren always makes? I’ve heard such great things about that pattern!

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